Construction

List of Headers or footers

1 and half ft by 2 and half ft x 1

1 ft by 2 and half ft x 1

1 and half ft by 5ft  x2

Next I made the header for the door for Gregor’s bedroom. Due to our initial idea of slanted design, the headers, footers and doorways were also required to be slanted. This was to extend the disproportionate feel by continuing the angles in a decreasing way. For this I used a setsquare, tape measurer and an angle measurer. To achieve the same slanted angle on the walls I started by measuring the angles at either end of the flats already prepared. Despite getting through this with relative ease, I found it difficult getting the obtuse angles correct.I used the electric saw for the angled cuts on the horizontals pieces and cut the ends of the wood diagonally.Next, I predrilled the holes at both ends of the vertical pieces. Before cutting the horizontal pieces out of the lengths of the wood, I subtracted 4cm, the width of two pieces of same wood.  

When assembling the frame together I used a cordless drill as I was using timber.

Instead of using a nail gun I used a hammer and applied the nails manually to secure the skin onto the frame. After all the four pieces of wood were secured firmly together, I checked the angles once again using a setsquare. This was in order to reassure myself that the measurements were all correct before trying to install it, which could of resulted in it not fitting.The final stage involved trimming excess skin and overlapping it over the frame and in order to do this it was neccesary we used a router. The spinning blade clings to the side of the frame, making it easy to stay in a straight line and we created totally smooth edges by sanding them down using textured sand paper.

 I used an electric drill to construct the frame using screws. I paid specific attention to the angle of the drill while drilling remembering to keep both the drill and screw straight.

The header for the living room door had to measure one and half by two and half feet. I measured out one piece measuring one and a half and then one measuring two and a half. I then proceeded to use these to take the measurements for the same pieces taking off twice the thickness of at one end from the horizontal pieces. After cutting the pieces into the correct lengths I started to assemble the frame and continued on the same process of working my way around the frame, I screwed each corner together in turn using two screws for each corner. 

To attach the skin I used a paintbrush to cover the facing side of the frame.  I then went round the edge with the nail gun maintaining a continuous motion to ensure a flat finish.

Some members of the group used the router to take off any ply board overlapping the frame to finish it off and used a piece of sandpaper to create a completely smooth surface.